Laser Hair Removal – Permanent Hair Removal or Hair Reduction?

One of the most common questions clients ask is whether Laser Hair Removal is permanent.  The answer is not necessarily black and white.  For some it does largely result in permanent hair removal however others may just experience a significant reduction.

Why is this the case?

There are several factors that influence laser hair removal.  Firstly, the target chromophore for laser hair removal is melanin, which is located within the hair shaft and hair matrix.  The melanin absorbs the light energy within the hair shaft and causes a photothermal (light and heat) reaction causing thermal (heat) damage.

As melanin is the target chromophore, the colour of the hair significantly influences the success of laser hair removal.  As white hairs contain no melanin, they are not suitable for laser and light-based treatments that rely on melanin as the target chromophore.

The greatest success for laser hair removal is for fair skin and dark hair – the Black Irish (a colloquial term that refers to Caucasian people of Irish ancestry who have black hair and pale skin).  Why because the hair has more melanin, and the skin has less.

Other factors to be taken into consideration include the diameter of the hair – thinner hairs need to be treated differently to thicker hairs.  In addition, the density of the hair within a particular treatment area also influences outcomes. The pubic region and facial hair for men, are typically thicker and denser hair and more difficult to achieve permanent removal.  The settings on the laser should be adjusted appropriately.

In short, colour, thickness and density are key contributors to the success of laser hair removal. These are all important considerations your laser clinician should be taking into consideration when performing your treatment and should be asking questions each time about your hair growth – how much, how soon and whether it is fine or thick. 

So, is it permanent?

Although the procedure is often touted as “permanent” hair removal, in reality, it only reduces the number of unwanted hairs.  The hair follicles are placed in a state of inactivity for a long period of time and when the hairs do grow back, they are lighter, finer, and fewer in number.  However, given the considerations we have discussed above, for some people it is more successful at being permanent.

The other most asked question is how many sessions do I need and why?

It is difficult to be precise about the number of sessions any individual will need based on the factors discussed above however typically between 8 – 12 sessions are required to see significant hair reduction so to ensure the best possible results, multiple treatments are necessary. 

This is because of the hair growth stages in the body of which there are three, telogen, anagen and catagen. The melanin is at its strongest at the anagen stage and it is necessary to ensure the hair is captured for treatment at this stage every time.  Typically, treatments will initially commence every four weeks however this will increase to six or even eight weeks once less hair is present. The rate of reduction is greatest at your first session and thereafter will improve but vary between treatments due to the hair growth stage.

Once a full treatment program is completed, maintenance sessions are required to treat dormant follicles and ensure that the hair doesn’t regenerate.  Again, it is difficult to be precise about how many maintenance sessions will be required but typically once or twice a year after the initial full treatment program.

So, although laser hair removal may not be permanent for some, it’s still one of the best options for slowing growth and reducing sometimes painful ingrown hairs and shaving rash.  We are all different in terms of the type and quantity of hair we have so treatment outcomes are going to be different for everyone. 

Oh and a word for warning – there are devices available for at home use but the safety and efficacy of these aren’t clear and are not regulated medial devices so if you’re thinking laser hair reduction, it’s best to leave it to an expert.